TCS - Ken's Kompendium Buying a New Computer

Ken's Kompendium Buying a New Computer

by Ken Hopkins
Sacramento PC Users Group
From the February 2001 issue of the I/O Port Newsletter

This article is also available in a PDF format, with illustration. To access it, click here.

If you wander down to your local computer or office supply store, you will be confronted with a bunch of computers that look very similar. The key to differentiating them is in the specifications. The name brand computers like Compaq and HP will have little specification cards. This article will help you understand some of the stuff you see written there.

I know some of you are impatient. If you do not care about the whys, you can skip ahead to Recommendations for the whats.

If you are buying a computer these days, be aware that profit margins are very thin. The store will make very little money on your computer. For this reason, the prices will not vary much between different stores or even brands.

Be aware that the store will try to sell you an extended warranty because that is where they can make some money. The only computers I recommend buying the extended warranty for are laptops. I say that because I seem to break laptops just after they go out of warranty.

I generally recommend a name brand computer unless you happen to know a reliable builder. Be sure to read the return policy before buying the computer just in case you get a defective computer.

First the basics. Each of the specifications will at minimum reveal the following:

I suppose it is possible to select your choice from that information and the price alone but the following information should also be revealed:

The specifications will probably not mention the basic items you get, like the keyboard and mouse. You need to try out the system to see if you like what they are offering. I often end up buying a better keyboard and mouse and shelving the one they include.

The system may also include a monitor and a printer. You will have to decide for yourself if they are really giving you a deal.

Processor

The processor is the core of the computer and there have been lots of choices through the years. You currently have a choice between processors made by Intel and processors made by AMD. These are roughly equivalent processors and the choice is mostly a religious one. I personally always buy Intel-based computers but I have many friends who prefer an AMD-based computer. The price between equivalent speed processors is very close and so is the technology. I can not give a rational reason to prefer one over the other.

The speed of the processor is measured in megahertz and usually written as MHz. The low-end computers have a speed specification over 500 MHz. What that means is that the processor clock is ticking at 500 thousand times per second. There appears to be little difference in processor price per cycle (i.e., power per dollar) until you reach 700 MHz, and then it gets expensive. You can buy a computer with a 1 GHz (gigahertz) processor (one million cycles per second) but expect to pay an additional thousand dollars for the privilege.

Running at those speeds, the processor generates a lot of heat and all computer systems will have processor fans. The best fans have roller bearings, but most manufacturers will not tell you anything about them.

Hard Disks

Unless you are looking at an expensive server-class computer, the computer will have an Ultra DMA hard drive. This is the latest evolution of the IDE drive. Ultra DMA hard drives are very inexpensive these days and this may be the most distinguishing feature of the systems you look at. Drives will range from 10 GB (gigabytes, a billion bytes) to 50 GB. If you are not familiar with the term gigabytes, think of one GB as 1,000 MB. I know that 10 GB sounds like a lot of storage, but right now there are companies creating programs that you will want in the future that will use up that space.

Some folks will tell you that SCSI hard drives are faster. That was once true but these days, they are very comparable. SCSI will cost you two to four times as much money for the same capacity (if it is even available). SCSI is more important in some mission-critical systems and servers. That is the subject of an entirely different article. Most of us do not need SCSI.

Memory

Required memory size has grown over the years. Most of these computers will have 64 MB of memory. I do not recommend anything less if you are going to use Windows 98 or Windows ME (due out in September). If you want to run Windows 2000, then you want at least 128 MB of memory. You will be happier with double my recommended minimums. Adding memory to the system will increase performance more than an increase in processor speed.

CD Drives

Every computer has a CD (Compact Disk) drive of some kind these days. CD media allows us to store about 640 MB of data on a 5 Ό” multi-layer plastic disk. The CD has taken over as the media of choice for program distribution. This is because the cost of manufacturing a CD for distribution is less than the cost of manufacturing a two-floppy disk set.

High-production CDs are produced by pressing them like vinyl albums were before audio CDs took over. The data (even music can be considered data here) is recorded in the media as holes. The data is actually stored under the label and read through reflection with a laser. You can not actually touch the data area.

Low-production CDs are produced using a specially formulated CD called CD-R. The CD-R has the holes burned into the data layer via a laser. These can be written once and are then considered permanent. A low-production drive is not much different than the drive you buy for a home computer, except that it includes a feeder to insert and remove disks so the computer can make multiple copies unattended. The blank CDs cost in the $1.00 to $2.00 range, depending on the brand.

A special version of the CD-R was developed that could be erased and then rewritten. This is the CD-RW. The benefit of CD-RW is that you can re-use the CD, but with an overhead penalty. A CD-RW disk must be formatted like we used to do with floppies, but it takes longer. A partial erase just maps around the erased data without regaining the used space. A full erase requires reformatting. This media has dropped in price to an affordable $2.00 to $5.00 depending on the brand. In theory, this would be a good media to use for system backups. I prefer to use the less expensive CD-R media and archive different versions of what I am backing up. Most computers with just a CD-ROM drive can not read CD-RW media but they will read CD-R media. For a while there were drives that read only CD-R disks, but the CD-RW drives ended up costing the same and manufacturers phased out the CD-R type. CD-RW drives will read all CD-ROMs, so you do not need both a CD-ROM drive and a CD-RW drive.

DVDs (Digital Video Disks) look like CDs except they store a lot more data (up to 5.2 GB). They use a blue laser instead of a red laser to read smaller holes, which allows for greater density of data in the same space. DVD-ROM drives can serve as CD-ROM drives. There is even one DVD-ROM drive that can also serve as a CD-RW drive (all three in one).

I have not forgotten DVD-RW and DVD-RAM drives. The concept of writing to disks with that capability is enticing, but it is still too early for individuals to invest in. DVD-RW and DVD-RAM are conflicting standards; we need to wait for the dust to settle. In addition, the blanks are about $50 each. When we get to $10, then it is time to jump. (I predict third quarter of 2001.)

CD-ROM

It appears that 32X is about the slowest drive currently available, and 40 seems to be standard on entry-level systems. This means it can read the contents of a CD at 32 times the original CD speed (the speed used to play audio CDs). Some of the faster drives use buffering to gain some speed; the media does not really spin that fast. Do not pay extra for a faster drive unless you have some application that benefits from that speed. I know of none at this time. I expect CD-ROM drives to go away within the next year. CD-RW and DVD drives are becoming standard even on entry-level systems.

CD-RW

Everyone should have a CD-RW drive on his or her system. Data files have gotten too large to fit on floppies, and CD-R and CD-RW media are very inexpensive. I envision that soon there will be no more floppy drives on computers.

CD-RW drive specifications confuse people because there are three speed numbers associated with the drive. The numbers on a popular HP CD-RW is 8x4x32.

The first number is the speed that the drive can write to CD-R media. The middle number is the speed that the drive can write to CD-RW media. The last number is the read speed. Compare this to the speed of a CD-ROM drive.

Consider the center number to be the most important. A 1X drive would require 74 minutes to write a full disk (there are none that slow on the market these days). A 4X would require one fourth that time or 18 ½ minutes. A 10X takes us down to about 7 ½ minutes. The incremental cost for the faster drives is not much; get a fast one when you can. The fastest I have seen is a 16X but I suspect they will get faster.

In the near future, we will see double density CD-RW drives. This will give us more storage and I expect to see some by the end of the year.

DVD-ROM

DVD-ROM drives let you play DVD movies on your computer, which you probably will not do very often. It also can store lots of information (up to 5.2 GB). Some companies that were shipping multiple CDs are now offering DVD as an alternative. These tend to be database-type things where the user needs multiple CDs of information online.

If the record companies ever start producing a lot of DVD-Audio standard, you may see DVD-ROM drives become really popular. DVD-Audio provides music that has six channels of 192,000 samples per second using 24-bit samples, compared to audio CD that has two channels of 44,000 samples per seconds using 16-bit samples. DVD-Audio promises to provide very high audio quality.

The speed numbers on DVD-ROM drives look slow but really are not. A 1X DVD drive reads a CD at a speed equivalent to a 10X CD-ROM drive. With drives running at 16X, they are fast drives.

DVD-RW or DVD-RAM

There are two standards for writing DVD disks. The standards, DVD-RW and DVD-RAM, are not compatible. When the industry decides which standard is best, it will be worth buying. Until then, hold off unless you are mastering DVDs for some reason.

Video Cards

The video graphic card options available on a pre-made computer are fairly limited and will probably fall into the business class. It will be fine for business applications and web browsing. If you are a serious gamer or graphics professional, you will want to replace that card with a different card. Some hard-core gamers will spend as much as $600 for a graphics card. Graphic professionals may spend over $1000. For the rest of us, the standard card will do just fine.

Memory and Color Depth

The video cards can run in different video mode based primarily on memory limitations. The modes vary in resolution (dots across by dots down) and the number of colors. The more colors, the more realistic the images will be. The color depth at any given resolution is limited by the memory on the card.

The number of colors fills up the memory at the following rates:

16 Colors = 0.5 Bytes per Pixel
256 Colors = 1 Byte per Pixel
High Color = 2 Bytes per Pixel
True Color = 3 Bytes per Pixel

Use that number in that following calculation to see the amount of memory used for that setting: Horizontal Resolution x Vertical Resolution x Bytes per Pixel = Amount of Ram Required (in bytes)

If you want to run at True Color with a resolution of 1600 X 1200, your video card must have 5.6 MB of video RAM (1600 x 1200 x 3 = 5,760,000 bytes).

Interface

If you are happy with the settings available on the video card in the computer you probably do not care how the computer talks to the video card. You will care only if you ever expect to replace it.

Check to see if the existing card can be removed, or at least disabled. Many of the low-end computers will have the video built into the motherboard. You may be able to tell by looking at the back of the computer. If all the connectors are in line with each other (including the video port), the video is definitely on the motherboard.

In my research, I found that most of the video cards interface through a special bus known as AGP (Accelerated Graphic Port) rather than PCI. Be sure that there is an AGP slot available if you expect to change the video. Note that there can still be an AGP slot even though the video is built into the motherboard.

AGP is a special interface developed by Intel that provides a much faster communications channel. In addition, AGP allows 3-D textures to be stored in main memory rather than video memory. This is why you will see shared video memory in some specifications.

Data Ports

Your computer will include several connectors for external devices. These connectors are called data ports. The standard ones you should expect to find are keyboard, mouse, serial, printer, USB, network, and telephone. In most cases, the data is transmitted one bit at a time (or serially). The printer port is one exception-it transmits multiple bits at one time (or in parallel).

Most name brand computers will color code the ports and the cables that connect to them. This way you just match up the colors. It works well for everyone except the colorblind.

Keyboard and Mouse Ports

The keyboard and mouse port use identical-looking small round connectors. It is easy to get them confused. The good news is they are actually interchangeable; the computer will figure out which device is plugged in where. These ports are normally built into the motherboard.

Printer Ports

There is normally one parallel printer port on a computer, referred to as LPT1. This is designed to provide a high-speed link to a printer. It uses a 25 pin D-type connector. Be aware that unless the computer includes the printer, the system will not include a cable to connect to the printer. There is an inexpensive parallel cable that is available for inkjet printers and a relatively expensive one used for laser printers. You may end up connecting to the printer via a USB port instead.

This port can also be used for connecting devices like scanners, zip drives, and netcams. Some expensive software utilizes a small device (called a dongle) to protect the software from unauthorized use; these connect to this port.

There is normally one of these ports built into the motherboard. Additional printer ports normally require an expansion board. Windows supports up to three parallel ports. If you need more parallel ports, you can add more through USB converters.

Serial Ports

There is normally at least one serial port, referred to as COM1. This might be used for an external modem, to sync your PDA, or to download images from a digital camera. This port uses a 9-pin D-type connector. (There used to be a 25-pin connector version, but I have not seen this connector used in years.)

One or two of these ports are usually built into the motherboard. It is becoming common to have a front-mounted serial port for use with digital cameras. Windows supports up to four of these ports. If you need more serial ports, you can add more through USB converters.

USB Ports

USB stands for Universal Serial Bus. Intel created USB in response to user difficulties with adding hardware devices to computers. USB ports started appearing on computers after Windows 95 was released. The support for USB in Windows 95 was spotty at best, but subsequent Windows releases have excellent support. USB devices include scanners, printers, keyboards, mice, cameras, and even PDAs. USB ports are fast, providing a throughput of 12 megabits per second. USB connections use a small flat connector; a symbol that resembles a pitchfork usually identifies it. Most current motherboards will have one or two USB ports on the back of the computer. Many computers will also have an additional port on the front of the computer. This is useful for devices like cameras, where you only use the device occasionally.

There will not be enough USB ports for all of the devices you could end up with. But USB is capable of connecting up to 127 USB devices. You can increase your USB ports through a USB hub, a small box with one cable that connects to an existing port and then a series of ports to connect your devices. You may even have a hub on your monitor or USB keyboard.

Be aware that there are powered and unpowered hubs. You may need a powered hub for certain devices. The hub on a keyboard is not powered but one on a monitor probably is. If you plug a device into a hub and it does not work, try connecting directly to the port. If that works, you have an unpowered hub and need a powered one. If you are buying a hub, I recommend buying a powered hub (just in case). I have not experienced this problem but have seen reports of it.

Network

Networks have finally made it to the home computer. Part of that is because people have more than one computer and are linking them together to share files or printers. I think that the biggest reason is because of high-speed connections like DSL and cable. A network allows you to share the high-speed Internet connection.

The network connection will be a 10/100 base-T port. This means that the network port can communicate at either 10 MBPS (megabits per seconds) or 100 MBPS depending on the hub being used. There are other network possibilities but I have not seen them offered on new computers, so I will ignore them in this article. I will talk more about networks in a future article.

FireWire

FireWire can be thought of as USB on steroids. It works very similar to USB but it runs at a higher speed. This technology was conceived by Apple Computers (which is probably what slows the implementation). This is useful for talking to a digital video camera. FireWire supports data rates of 100, 200, and 400 Mbps (yes, faster than network speeds). It supports up to 63 devices, with a maximum cable length of 4.5 meters between devices.

Telephone

Virtually every computer system I found in my research includes an internal modem (whether you want it or not). Any modem you get will be V.90-compatible, meaning you will be capable of connecting at 56K. There will be a pair of telephone jacks for connecting to your household telephone system.

The performance of these internal modems will be average but not extraordinary. In many cases, these will be processor-less modems (often referred to as WinModems because the first of this type of modem was called WinModem) that use your computer to control the modem functions fairly heavily. This should not be a problem unless you want to run something other than Windows for an operating system.

I do not like internal modems (even when they are free). I normally rip out these modems and use an external modem (connected to my serial port).

Expandability

Ideally you should get a computer that has all the gadgets you desire already installed and ready to go from the vendor. That may be possible, but new gadgets are popping up all the time. In some cases, the new gadget may require a drive bay and/or an expansion card slot. For that reason, I recommend that you buy a computer that has at least one empty drive bay and one empty expansion slot.

The ISA bus, long the standard expansion slot, has all but disappeared. The winning technology is the PCI slot. You will need to match the card and the slot. An AGP slot is useful even if the computer has video built into the motherboard. This allows you to add a new video technology in the future. Monitors There are three types of CRT (cathode-ray tube) monitors currently available, and each has its advantages for various applications. There are also LCD (liquid crystal display) and liquid plasma monitors available if you have a large budget.

Dot Pitch

The dot pitch of a monitor is the distance between adjacent sets of red, green, and blue dots. The smaller the distance, the sharper the image. A sharper image is easier on the eyes. Do not even consider a monitor that has a dot pitch number larger than .27 for a shadow-mask monitor or larger than .25 for an aperture-grille monitor.

Display Sizes

How big a monitor do you need? That depends on your usage and your budget. Just to confuse you, monitor sizes are measured diagonally (just like TV screens). To make things even tougher on you, the measurement is the tube size, not the viewable size. The image skews near the edges and so that area is not usable. When you compare monitor size, compare the viewable size instead of the tube size.

Higher resolutions let you see more information. Running a display at a resolution higher than the ones I describe will result in eyestrain. You can move down a notch or two if you have vision problems.

Monitors Smaller Than 15”

Do not buy one of these, they are just too small. I know they look like a good value but you probably not be happy using it. This size will look best at a resolution of 640 x 480 pixels (picture elements, or dots). I have seen some software that will not run at this low resolution.

15” Monitor

This size is suitable for word processing or spreadsheet applications The only advantage of this size is the low cost. This will look best at a resolution of 800 x 600 pixels.

17” Monitor

This is a good size for web browsing and other Internet applications. It will also work well for word processing and spreadsheet applications. This will look best at a resolution of 800 x 600 pixels and may be okay at 1024 x 768. The price for this size of monitor is just slightly above the 15” monitors.

19” Monitor

This is the size for the amateur graphics designer or the hardcore gamer. This will look best at a resolution of 1024 x 768 pixels. These monitors take a lot of desk space. There are now short-length monitors that eliminate that problem. Be sure to measure your desk space before buying one of these.

21”Monitor

This is the size of choice for professional graphics designers and people that need a lot of windows visible at one time. I find that this size is great for programming because I can have lots of debug windows open. This size is normally run at a resolution of 1280 X 1024 or even 1600 X 1200.

Refresh Rates

The refresh rate of a monitor tells you how frequently the screen is redrawn by the electron guns within the CRT. This number is measured in hertz (Hz), or cycles per second. A refresh rate of 70 indicates that the screen is redrawn 70 times per second.

If the refresh rate is set too low, you may notice some flicker on the screen. This is especially true when working under fluorescent lights (which operate at 60 Hz). You should increase the refresh rate until you find one that does not flicker. The possible refresh rate may vary based upon the resolution, with higher refresh rates available at lower resolutions. You should be able to find a comfortable range between 67Hz and 85Hz.

Do not try to refresh at a rate higher than the monitor manufacturer specifies. You could damage the monitor with a bad setting. Fortunately, the expensive monitors include circuitry to protect them.

Flat or Curved?

Most monitors have a curved front to them but some of the more expensive have a flat screen. Why would you pay more for the flat screen?

The flat screen will have much less glare.

A flat screen will have more usable screen space than the same size curved screen. There will be less image distortion on a flat screen. When you first look at a flat screen, the image will look funny, as though the screen is bowed out. You will get used to it quickly.

Dot-Trio Shadow-Mask CRT

The most common type of monitor tube uses a thin sheet of perforated metal in front of the CRT to create discrete phosphor dots. Look for a dot pitch-the shortest distance between phosphor dots of the same color-of 0.27 mm or less. This CRT style is well suited for text.

Aperture-Grille CRT

Sony invented aperture-grille CRTs, sold by Sony as Trinitron and by Mitsubishi as DiamondTron. Aperture-grille uses an array of stretched wires (instead of the hole filled metal plate) to create images using phosphor lines. Look for a stripe pitch of 0.25 mm or less. Aperture-grille designs boast improved brightness and contrast over shadow-mask tubes, without a loss of focus. This style CRT is best for image editing and is not as sharp for text work.

Slot-Mask CRT

NEC invented this combination of shadow-mask and aperture-grille designs called CromaClear. It uses a 0.25-mm mask with elliptically shaped phosphors. They claim that it provides good images for both text and graphics.

LCD Panel

It is a pity that LCD panels are so expensive because everyone should be using them. LCD panels consist of a thin panel of liquid crystal shutters that open and close to let the appropriate color of light through them. There is no cathode ray gun firing at you, so they do not emit much in the way of radiation. As a bonus, they take up very little desk space. They provide a rock-solid display that is easy on the eyes.

This style is suitable for text work and general graphics but may not have enough color depth for photo work. This display technology is not quite as fast as CRT technology and so may not be suitable for some games.

There are two styles of LCD monitors, digital and analog. The digital model requires a special video card that outputs the appropriate digital signal. A normal video card creates a digital signal and convert that signal to an analog one that is sent to the monitor. An analog LCD converts this analog back into the digital signal required to drive the screen. The digital-only version will provide a sharper screen since it avoids an unnecessary translation.

LCD monitors are available in various sizes with each larger size being significantly expensive. The reason is that the display is really a large integrated circuit. There is a lot of surface area where problems can occur during manufacturing. If more than a couple of dots are bad, they have to scrap the display. We end up paying for the cost of the scrapped displays. If you can afford the price, buy a digital LCD panel; you will love it.

Liquid Plasma

Liquid plasma screens are large and expensive, but beautiful. I do not know anyone who has one on his or her desktop. They are normally used for conference rooms or tradeshow booths.

Bottom Line on Monitors

This is an important component of your system. You spend a lot of time staring at it and it will have a lot to do with your satisfaction with your system. You should sit in front of the potential monitor and use the computer for a while to determine if you really like it.

It is possible to spend more on the monitor than the computer. If that is what it takes to be comfortable, do it. I use an expensive 21” ViewSonic that is very comfortable to work with. I have used cheap monitors (that normally came with the computer they were hooked to) and could not wait to get away from them. Do not be afraid to buy a system that does not include a monitor so that you get a good monitor separately.

If you bought a good monitor last time and want to use it on your new computer, that is okay too, unless it is wearing out. Compare the quality of your old monitor with the latest models and be sure your monitor is still worth using.

Recommendation

The tough part about recommending a system is that no two companies offer the same options. In addition, the recommendation system would be different, based upon the intended application. This recommendation is for typical home use (word processing, spreadsheets, Quicken, e-mail, and Web browsing). It will work fine for most games but it will not be the fastest on the block. It will work fine for Webcams but it is not necessarily a good video editing system. It could serve as a workstation but would not make a good server.

The price of such a system will vary based upon the processor selected. I calculate that the base price for the system above without the processor and motherboard would be $900. To that we need to add in the cost of the processor and the appropriate motherboard. Based upon pricing at the beginning of September, here are the prices you should expect to find for any given processor:

The sub-$1000 systems will probably be based upon the AMD K6-2 or a low-end Intel Celeron and run close to 500 MHz. By Christmas, expect that same amount to get you a 600-700 AMD Duron or Intel Celeron system instead.

A system with a speed range of 600 MHz to 700 MHz of processor should cost under $1100. The processors could be AMD Duron, AMD Athlon, Intel Celeron, or Intel Pentium III.

A system with a speed range of 700 MHz to 800 MHz of processor should cost under $1200. The processors could be AMD Duron, AMD Athlon, Intel Celeron, or Intel Pentium III. This is the best buy area. You get more power for your dollar in this range of system.

A system with a speed range of 800 MHz to 900 MHz of processor should cost under $1600. The processors could be either AMD Athlon or Intel Pentium III. This is a good range for power users. I am not sure you could discern a difference between these machines and the much more expensive gigahertz computers.

A system with a speed range of 900 MHz to 1.0 GHz of processor should cost over $2000. The processors could be either AMD Athlon or Intel Pentium III. These computers will probably also have lots of memory and large hard drives, bringing the system cost closer to $2500.

The top-of-the-line computers are in the 1.1 GHz to 1.2 GHz range, and will cost almost $3000. The processors could be either AMD Athlon or Intel Pentium III. This range is just for the user who has to be the fastest on the block. These computers will probably also have lots of extras, bringing the system cost closer to $4000.

Watch Out for That Rebate Scam!

When you look at the prices in the advertisements, you will see prices that are $400 less than the prices I quoted. This is because of a rebate from MSN, Prodigy or Compuserve. These are not good deals, do not do it. To get the rebate, you must sign up for a 3-year commitment to the ISP at $21.95 a month (a commitment of $790.20 over 3 years). That price is a little high for the Sacramento area; most ISPs will give you equivalent service for less money. It is the possibility of higher bandwidth connections that really sours the deal. If you finally get DSL or cable modem service in your home, the MSN, Prodigy, or Compuserve service is just money you are throwing away. I believe that most of us will have a high-speed link within the next 3 years.

Ken Hopkins has been involved with computers since the early seventies and has collected more computer information than he is willing to admit. He currently serves as layout editor for Sacra Blue, the magazine of the Sacramento PC Users Group. Send topic ideas to ken.hopkins@sacpcug.org.

Tip: The best time to buy a computer.

There really is a best time of the year to buy a computer. That time is a few early morning hours on the day after Thanksgiving. On that day, stores like CompUSA will have sales that feature computers as loss leaders. These are computers that they are selling below cost. They will only have a few available (maybe 10) and they will be gone before Noon. If that sale computer is close to your desired computer in specifications, wake up early and buy it.

There is no restriction against anyone using the article as long as it is kept in context, with proper credit given to the author. This article is brought to you by the Editorial Committee of the Association of Personal Computer User Groups (APCUG), an International organization to which this user group belongs.



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