I use a film scanner, but since most of the I/O Port readers probably use flatbed scanners, I will relate this article specifically to the latter. While most of the tips, I will be presenting, apply to both types of scanners, there are a few differences. The quality of the print is important when using a flatbed scanner. Most stores that offer film development are very consistent in their negative development. However, the same negative can be printed well or poorly depending on the equipment used of the knowledge and the processor. Even the automatic machines require a human operator.

It did not occur to me until this last trip how my methods of taking photographs have changed since I now take them strictly for use on my computer. When I worked as a professional photographer many, many,.... years ago, I would shoot full frame. At that time, even though I developed and printed my own black and white film, I saw in terms of a totally finished picture. Each picture had to reflect that. Naturally, I did some cropping, and burning and dodging in my darkroom, but that was about all the major alterations I made. Now, I realized that I composed my images very differently and thought that it might be helpful to readers to pass on this information.

I still shoot some full frame shots, but I also shoot sections of images for details. I might take a wide angle shot of a waterfall, for example, then another shot using a telephoto lens and a different exposure of a dark area of foliage. The latter I can use in my computer shot to give added detail to the scene.

How often has the perfect shot appeared, but the sun is facing the camera? While this is certainly not normally desirable, one can manipulate the image on the computer to remove the images of the lens ( called sun flares) that will appear when shooting into the sun.

People, also, no longer present a problem, because once the image is in the computer, they can be erased!

The following are some specific tips that I have learnt along the way. Some will presume the use of a camera that has a variable lens (wide angle to telephoto) and has an exposure system that can be manually operated.

The best time to capture detail is when the sun is not shining from a perfectly blue sky. When this is the case, the tonal range of the picture cannot be captured on a print. If this is the case, I take multiple exposures and then scan these into the computer and with my image editing program cut, paste, and blend. The best time to capture detail is in the early morning, evening, or on a slightly cloudy day where the sun is shining but its glare is diffused by the clouds. In this case, one exposure should suffice.

I take more wide angle shots than I do telephoto since it it easier to crop a scanned image than to have to add "that tree to the right that balanced the picture, but I didn't include" it in the image. I tend to take many more frames of the same picture than I probably will need anyway.

When there aren't any clouds in the sky to fill up that basically blue area above my horizon, I do not panic because I have collected a stock pile of cloud shots and know I can add them to the image.

I, also, take photographs for the purpose of keeping a stock pile of specific images. I keep a list of images that I do not have but need. I like to do all my own work so I try to have a base of varied images. I do not necessarily advocate this for there are wonderful high resolution, royalty free images on the market. Recently, my husband and I went to the Renaissance Fair in Moskogee twice to take close up pictures of flying hawks.

Often when we travel, we have our film developed and sometimes printed along the way. That way I know whether the negative meets my criteria. I know that most people do not normally "read" negatives, and this tip will probably only apply to a few. In our travels, we have found that the one-hour film development centers in many Wal Marts are consistently good and are not very expensive. Although any type of photography is expensive now.

The type of film used is also important especially if one will ever use it on a film scanner. The color negative film (not slide film) that I have found to be the best is Fuji film. I use Fujicolor Super Gold Plus, ASA 400. I, initially, was informed about the benefits of usinf Fuji film on a CompuServe forum from users of many different types of scanners. I tested various negatives that I had previously shot, and their assessment was correct. I am sure that there are other good negative color films on the market. I have found that the type of color positive (slide) film is not as critical; however, I mainly use color negative film (print film). It is more forgiving film and exposure is not as critical.

I could continue to ramble on and on and on.....Instead, if the readership that attends programs is interested, I will be happy to present a program on Tips on Taking Photos, Scanning, and Image Editing. Please let me know by e-mail since we could do this in July if this topic is of sufficient interest. My e-mail address is: 102353.2532@Compuserve.com. Also look for future articles on Film Scanners and Flatbed Scanners and on specific techniques for the image editing of scanned in Photographs. If these do not appear in subsequent I/O Ports, please remind me to write them. I sometimes forget to write what I have said I will write. Also, if anyone has questions that have a "universalish" appeal, please send them to my e-mail address and if I am able, I will address then in future articles. I do not like to write articles on topics that will not appeal to a sufficient percentage of the readership. I need feedback from readers.

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